Articles
GARLIC FRIES, BEER & BASEBALL
(2012)
HEAD Society members have explored the history of numerous NorCal culinary creations. We’ve roamed the streets of Martinez to find the birthplace of the martini, sipped Irish coffee at the Buena Vista Cafe, traced the roots of the “Mission” burrito and tasted our way across North Beach on an Italian Cookie Walk. One recent adventure was the quest for the story behind another Bay Area original, Gilroy Garlic Fries, this aromatic indulgence’s connection to beer and the great game of baseball.
Garlic Fries are an inspired marriage of garlic and French fries. It is said that President Thomas Jefferson, a well-known, Francophile, first served fries to guests in the White House. To give his fried potatoes more ju ne sais quoi, he proclaimed them French.
Garlic, native to Central Asia and a member of the lily family, arrived in America in the 1700s from Europe. It was mainly used for medical purposes; to keep vampires away, protection from the Evil Eye and the like. It didn’t make the jump into America’s kitchens until the 1920s. By that time enough Italian immigrants had arrived in the U.S. to take these potent bulbs into the mainstream.
That brings us to Gilroy. This city, 80 miles south of AT&T Park* was founded in 1870 and named for John Gilroy. He was an American sailor who jumped ship in Monterey back in 1814, married well and became the government official responsible for what became Southern Santa Clara County.
Gilroy was the original center of culinary garlic farming in the U.S. Today California grows 87% of America’s garlic with most of the production centered in Kern and Fresno Counties. Gilroy remains the heart of garlic shipping and dehydration.
We’ve covered fries and garlic but how did these two come together? The answer takes us to Germany. In the 1980s, Dan Gordon (the Gordon in Gordon Biersch Brewing) was studying brewing at the Technical University of Munich. After a field trip to some garlic fields, the students were treated to a 10-course meal - each one featuring garlic. The seed, or clove, was planted.
Later during final exams, Dan was craving a late-night snack. Inspired by the garlic dinner, he combined garlic and French fires to sustain him through his studies. Later Dan returned to California and partnered with his college buddy and homebrewer, Dean Biersch to open their first brewpub. It was 1988 and Gordon Biersch in Palo Alto opened its doors and kegs. It was there on Emerson Street that Gordon’s study snack became an instant success. Gilroy Garlic Fries became a fixture on the pub’s menu.
A few years later, garlic fries made their first appearance at a San Francisco Giants’ game. It was 1994 and the G-Men were still playing at Candlestick Park. From the beginning, they were a hit as fans lined-up 30 deep to get their garlic fries. Soon they were sold at 49ers’ games too. They even ventured across the bay to Oaktown for A’s games. When the Giants moved to Oracle Park (yes, I know it was called PacBell back then) garlic fries went along.
After hot dogs, garlic fries are the #1 food item sold at Giants’ games. The potatoes are fried in olive oil and hand tossed in a slurry of garlic and more olive oil. Then they’re salted and sprinkled with fresh parsley. In a single game, they go through 3 tons (that’s right, tons) of potatoes and 1,000 pounds of garlic. According to Dan Gordon, “Garlic fries and a beer are a complete and balanced meal."
*The San Francisco Giants new ballpark opened in 2000 as Pac Bell Park. After changes in the corporate world, it was rebranded AT&T Park. Now, the Giants play at Oracle Park. Same place, different name.